When Madras Was ‘Nalla” Madras

For those who lived through Madras in the 1970s and 1980s, the city after sunset had a charm all its own. Long before multiplexes, malls and loud nightclubs became the norm, the city’s finest hotels offered an elegant blend of music, dancing and dining that defined its nightlife.
I spent many evenings at the Taj Coromandel and the Connemara Hotel, then under Spencer’s, enjoying good food while listening to live bands. At the Connemara’s first-floor restaurant, an alcove housed the band while a dance floor stretched out before it. One of the most popular acts was lead guitarist Tommy Smith and his band, The Jades. Now settled in Melbourne, Tommy recalls, “We performed there regularly from 1969 to 1973. Diners constantly requested their favourite songs and many took to the dance floor. Nightlife in Madras was remarkably vibrant.”
Rock musician and singer Dheena Chandra Dhas remembers those days fondly. “After The Jades moved on, The Avengers took over. Later, I formed Rage with the brilliant lead guitarist, the late Mano Roberts, and we played there. On weekends especially, the restaurant would be packed, with couples and groups dancing the night away.”
A few establishments even featured live cabaret shows, including Shiraz at The Imperial in Egmore, Pals on Mount Road and Hotel Arun in Aminjikarai. Hotel Savera’s Piano Restaurant had its own live band, while the Golden Bowl drew crowds with music and dancing. Tommy Menezes & The Milestones were among the favourite performers there.
Another cherished memory is Champaka at Hotel Sudarshan on Monteith Road, now the Ambassador Pallava. Many weekends were spent there, enjoying excellent food and even better music. M. Mahadevan of Hot Breads fame, who served as Night Manager from 1979 to 1982, remembers, “Champaka had a live band and dance floor, but its signature feature was a magnificent chandelier made entirely of seashells beneath which guests danced.”
Later, Mano Roberts’ band moved to the Taj Coromandel. My friend Gautam Sarkar, then the hotel’s Marketing Executive, recalls another innovation that became legendary. “While dine-and-dance evenings were hugely popular, the Taj introduced the midnight buffet, which became a sensation among late-night revellers in Madras.”
The 1980s and 1990s ushered in the disco era. Many of us became regular disco hoppers. Sindoori Hotel on Greams Road offered an Afternoon Disco for youngsters who had to return home before strict curfew hours. Adyar Park’s Gatsby and The Park’s Pasha became iconic destinations, always packed with fashionable youngsters proudly displaying their best John Travolta-inspired moves. Later, HFO (Hell Freezes Over) at Hotel Aruna on Sterling Road emerged as another favourite haunt.
Oh Bessie!
Yet for countless young couples, the real place to be was Bessie—Besant Nagar Beach. During my courting days, another young couple and I would drive there, park near the shore, listen to music on the car stereo and enjoy the clean, uncluttered beach. There were quiet corners, sea breeze and a sense of freedom that made those evenings unforgettable. Today’s crowded Bessie bears little resemblance to that tranquil stretch of sand.
The Marina, meanwhile, belonged largely to families. With most clubs restricted to members, it was the hotel dance floors that provided ordinary Madras residents an opportunity to enjoy an evening of music and dancing.
And no night out was complete without a final stop at Buhari on Mount Road. Open well past midnight, it welcomed moviegoers, dancers and night owls alike. A plate of hot mutton samosas or simple bread-butter-jam accompanied by steaming tea was the perfect ending to an evening in old Madras before heading home through the city’s quiet, sleeping streets.
Those nights may have faded into memory, but for those who experienced them, they remain a cherished chapter of a gentler, more elegant Madras—a city that truly came alive after dark.