The bull who loved peanuts …
Sunitha Srinivasan
Bangalore or Bengaluru—the glamorous tech capital of India—stands as a symbol of urban sophistication. Known for its world-class pubs, thriving microbreweries, and cosmopolitan vibe, the city is a magnet for fashionable, ambitious individuals who embody its dynamic, progressive spirit. These people, essential to the city’s lifeblood, contribute to its pulsating energy and ensure its status as a global metropolis.
But beneath this modern façade lies Benda Kaalu Ooru—the city of boiled beans—a name that harks back to its humble beginnings and rustic charm. The origins of this name lie in a tale of hospitality and warmth from the 12th century. According to legend, while on a hunting expedition, the Hoysala King Veera Ballala II lost his way deep inside a forest near present-day Bengaluru. Exhausted, hungry, and perhaps frustrated with his predicament, he wandered for hours searching for his retinue, only to get even more mired in the forest as the hours sped by. As night approached, he had still not found any trace of his people. However, to his luck, he came across an elderly forest dweller—a kind-hearted lady—who offered him the only food she had – a pot of boiled beans. This simple gesture left a profound impression on the king. Grateful for her generosity in his moment of despair, he decided to name the area Benda Kaalu Ooru, as a tribute to her kindness and the modest meal that sustained him.
Today, the city’s dual identity—cosmopolitan Bengaluru and earthy Benda Kaalu Ooru—beautifully captures the interplay of tradition and modernity, creating a tapestry as vibrant and diverse as its people. It is wonderful how modern Bengaluru embraces its heritage – be it the Avarekai Mela an annual festival that celebrates the ubiquitous bean – Avarekai after which the city is named, or the recently concluded Kadalekai Parishe or groundnut fair. The people of the area throng these festivals, support them with fervour, and ensure that these grand old traditions remain an integral part of their beloved city.
The Groundnut Fair, celebrated on the last Monday of Karthika—the eighth month of the Hindu calendar, corresponding to October and November in the Gregorian calendar—is a vibrant and joyous festival. The celebrations typically begin a day or two earlier and extend for a day after, making it a three – or four-day extravaganza. The epicenter of the festivities is the Bull Temple area in Basavanagudi, located in the southern part of the city. During this time, the roads from the Ramakrishna Ashram Circle to BMS College are transformed into a lively and festive space. They are cordoned off and adorned with beautiful lights, setting the stage for the jubilant celebrations to unfold. This unique cultural event brings together tradition, community, and the spirited charm of the city, making it a highlight of the local calendar.
The festival’s origin goes back many centuries, and as is always the case with folklore, there are several versions of it. One of them states that in the days of yore, the area that is now a vital part of a teeming city was occupied by groundnut fields. The farmers toiled long and hard to make a living out of their meagre crops, only to find that when the peanuts were ready for harvesting, a bull would appear seemingly from nowhere and ravage the fields that were ready for harvest. This seemed to happen particularly on full moon nights. One night, the farmers stayed awake and when the bull appeared, they followed it, only to find that it disappeared over a hillock as mysteriously as it had emerged. In the place where it disappeared, to their astonishment, they saw a giant bull or Basava made out of stone that had arisen from nowhere. Even more other-worldly was the fact that the bull kept growing in size in front of their eyes. To stop the Basava or Nandi from growing any more, the shell-shocked farmers nailed a Trishul to its head. They were now certain that the bull that was visiting them was Nandi the mount of Lord Shiva. The farmers vowed to build a temple for the bull that had reached a size of 15 feet in height and 20 feet in length as well as offer their first crop of peanuts to it every year. The monolithic statue of the bull is incredibly majestic. Believed to be one of the largest in the world, it exudes a serenity that in some way belies its size. This is a gentle giant – magnanimous and secure as he gazes down on his devotees who to this day shower him with their devotion.
The pledge to offer him the first crop of peanuts also remains a thriving custom. Farmers from near and far bring their peanuts to the bull temple where they make their obeisance. Thereafter, they sell their wares in the Kadalekai Parishe. It is amazing how this festival resonates with the people of Bangalore – it is thronged from the morning until late in the evening. Street vendors open up stalls of all kinds along the street, and people jostle each other to buy snacks, clothes, trinkets, and all kinds of different items that they offer. Fortunately, the weather is gorgeous at this time of the year, making the spending of time in this street festival a complete pleasure.
As you stroll down the streets, you realise that this is a homegrown festival for the people of the area. There are hardly any tourists…. just the local community out to have a fun-filled day. Besides, the various stalls, there are joy rides and games of chance…vendors make delicious sweets on the spot that they sell at extremely affordable prices – who ever heard of a freshly made jalebi selling for Rs 5/- in these days of inflation? Teenagers blow their party pipes and wear feathers in their hair adding to the carnival atmosphere, while the older ladies shop for vessels and of course, peanuts to carry home…There is little that is not available at the festival, so much so, that even the peanuts seem a bit relegated to the background…..somehow that hardly matters…..this is a festival that is only growing bigger with every passing year, and that’s what is wonderful, because it remains a vital part of the yearly calendar of a thriving, modern metropolis……
