The Tipu Trail ….

By Sunitha Srinivasan

It’s that wonderful time of the year when the great outdoors seems to be just beckoning you to play truant and step outside to enjoy the fresh, crisp air and clear blue skies. The weather is cool and pleasant, so a whole day outdoors seems incredibly attractive. Perhaps a nice long trek and a picnic? Picnic did you say? What a wonderful word. Somehow it brings a smile to one’s eyes and a gentle feeling of nostalgic joy – for almost everyone picnics are a joyous reminder of childhood. Picnics with family and friends, school picnics…. all accompanied by bags of junk food, some sandwiches or lemon rice, and oodles of fun.

Despite their seemingly overcrowded nature, most cities often hide perfect spots for a relaxing outing. It might be a serene beach, the tranquil banks of a river, or a small hill offering a breathtaking view. With a bit of research, you’ll find that nearly every urban centre boasts a variety of delightful locations where you can unwind and enjoy fresh, unpolluted air.

If you live near Bangalore, there’s a sprawling trail that you can explore over a few weekends. This journey is especially captivating for history enthusiasts, as it allows you to follow in the footsteps of the legendary Tipu Sultan and delve into his life and times.

Tipu Sultan, famously known as the Tiger of Mysore, stands out as one of India’s most fascinating and dynamic rulers. He is celebrated as a hero who valiantly resisted the might of the East India Company and as a visionary leader who brought prosperity to his kingdom. A remarkable innovator, he was a pioneer in rocket artillery, and his patronage laid the foundation for industries like the Channapatna toys and silkworm cultivation. Many historical sites associated with this extraordinary ruler are not only easily accessible but also wonderfully preserved, offering a delightful experience for visitors.

Devanahalli

Tipu Sultan was born in Devanahalli (around 38 km  from the centre of Bangalore) in 1751. A trip to his birthplace and the fort in its environs is a ‘must see’ even if you are not a history buff.

The Devanahalli Fort is impressively well-preserved and spans approximately an acre. Within its boundaries, you’ll find a vibrant area comprising several beautiful temples, a bustling village with homes, a school, and shops. The fort’s walls feature intriguing three-dimensional lookout points, together with exquisite frescoes and carvings. The views from different spots within the stronghold are equally captivating—ranging from picturesque coconut groves to the occasional sight of a large lizard!

The history of Devanahalli is both fascinating and esoteric. Originally known as Devanadoddi, its roots trace back to the 15th century. A family of refugees fleeing from Conjeevaram (modern-day Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu) camped near the base of Ramaswami Betta, located to the east of Nandi Hills. Their leader, Rana Baire Gowda, is said to have been divinely guided in a dream to establish a settlement in this region. He, along with his Morasu Wokkalu family, settled in a small village named Ahuti, which later came to be known as Avati. Rana Baire Gowda’s son, Malla Baire Gowda, played a pivotal role in shaping the region’s history. He founded the towns of Devanahalli, Chikkaballapura, and Doddaballapura. Interestingly, Kempegowda, the founder of Bangalore, also belonged to the Morasu Wokkalu lineage.

Devanahalli was historically a part of Gangawadi, a region in Karnataka. Over time, it came under the rule of various dynasties, including the Rashtrakutas, Nolambas, Pallavas, Cholas, Hoysalas, and the Vijayanagara Empire. In 1501 AD, Malla Baire Gowda constructed a historic mud fort, which was the forerunner of the stone fort that still stands today. In 1747 AD, this fort came under the control of the Wodeyars of Mysore, led by Nanja Raja. Subsequently, it passed into the hands of Haider Ali and later his son, Tipu Sultan, who renamed it Yousafabad (meaning the abode of Yousuf, the finest man). However, this name never gained widespread usage. During the Third Mysore War in 1791, the fort was captured by Lord Cornwallis.

Though it is often assumed that Tipu Sultan was born within the fort, historical evidence suggests otherwise. His actual birthplace lies a few meters outside the fort. It is  marked by a small pillared enclosure with a stone tablet. This area is known as Khas Bagh and remains a significant landmark in Devanahalli.

Sultanpet (Nandi Hills)

Nandi Hills is located about 60 kilometres from Bangalore city, making it an ideal destination for a day trip. Combining a visit to Nandi Hills with the nearby Devanahalli Fort can offer a fulfilling historical and scenic experience.

Sultanpet is a vital part of the Tipu trail for several reasons:

Silk Weaving:

During Tipu Sultan’s reign, silk weaving units were established in Sultanpet. These establishments are still in existence.

Architecture:

Tipu Sultan commissioned a beautiful mosque in Sultanpet, which, despite its current dilapidated condition, is a fine example of the Deccan-style of Islamic architecture.

The Fourth Anglo-Mysore War:

Sultanpet was the site of a major battle during the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War. At the Battle of Sultanpet Tope, Tipu’s Diwan, Mir Miran Purniya, famously defeated Colonel Arthur Wellesley, who would later become the First Duke of Wellington. Incidentally, Purniya served as the first Diwan of the Mysore Kingdom under three rulers—Hyder Ali, Tipu Sultan, and Krishnaraja Wodeyar III—a rare and remarkable achievement.

This battle is especially notable for the deployment of Mysorean rockets—the first iron-cased rockets successfully used in military combat. Both Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan used these rockets against the British East India Company in the late 18th century. Their innovation later inspired the development of the Congreve rocket in 1804 by the British.

The British Cemetery:

Sultanpet also houses a crumbling British cemetery with twelve graves, some of which belong to soldiers who died during the war.

After the British defeated Tipu Sultan in 1799, Sultanpet became a British military station, with troops stationed there until 1808. In 1809, Colonel Welsh wrote about Sultanpet: “The Pettah is extensive. It has very good bazaars and is famous for the best potatoes and soft sugar in the peninsula. The gardens abound in almost every fruit and vegetable of Europe and Asia combined.”

Sultanpet (Bangalore City)

There is another Sultanpet in the heart of Bangalore city. It is around 40 Kms from Devanahalli, and only 6 kms from the centre of Bangalore. It is extremely crowded and moving around and exploring the area is a huge challenge. One would also be extremely hard put to really locate any historical gems in this locality, however, it is colourful, vibrant and filled with joie de vivre. It is the commercial heart of the city and definitely worth a visit. It is also very close to the Fort and Summer Palace, so a trip to these places could be combined.

Bangalore Fort and the Summer Palace

Tipu had several summer palaces. The one we are referring to is in Chamarajpet (KR Market). It is in the vicinity of Sultanpet. Haider Ali started building this Indo–Islamic–styled palace in 1778. It was completed by Tipu in 1791. The artist Robert Home writes that “the palace was grand and spacious, composing a lofty hall, the wooden roof of which is supported by colonnades of the same material. The pillars are connected by scalloped arches, and the whole is superbly painted. The walls in front of the entrances to the East and West halls have balconies, richly carved, and raised by small pillars united by arches.” To Robert Mackenzie, the palace was “the most airy and elegant of any in the East”. He was awestruck by the gold leaf flowers that adorned the Diwan-I-Aam, as well as by  the richly carved floor and wall hangings.

The Bangalore palace largely remained undestroyed (unlike some of Tipu’s other palaces) because it was used by the British army as an office along with the fort that was turned into an English garrison and arsenal. In 1831, Bangalore’s public offices were also moved to the Tipu palace where they remained until 1866 when they were shifted to the Attara Katcheri.  This red building in Cubbon Park was called the Old Public Offices Building because it originally was home to the Secretariat of Mysore. Currently, it is occupied by the High Court of Karnataka.

Within the palace is an interesting museum displaying items from Tipu’s life – his clothes and crown for instance. There are also interesting frescoes depicting the battles that Tipu and Haider fought against the British. The palace rests on an elevated platform with wooden pillars at the ends. Interestingly, there is a Ganpati Temple within the fort complex. Perhaps the most striking features of the museum are a painting of the original throne and a replica of Tipu Sultan’s tiger.

Srirangapatinam

At a distance of around 130 kms from Bangalore is Srirangapatinam. It is a nice day outing from Bangalore.

Srirangapatinam is encircled by the river Kaveri.  The town takes its name from the beautiful Ranganathaswamy temple.  The temple was originally built by the rulers of the Ganga dynasty  rulers in the 9th century AD. It has been renovated over the centuries, making it a medley of the Houysala  and Vijayanagar  styles of temple architecture.

Srirangapatnam became the de facto capital of Mysore under Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan.  It was also the scene of the Battle of Seringapatam, in 1799. This was the battle where Tipu was killed. Tipu’s troops fought the battle against the combined armies of the Nizam of Hyderabad and the East India Company under of General George Harris.

Tipu Sultan was killed in this battle because he was betrayed by one of his confidants. Similar to the location of his birth, the spot where he died is marked by a stone plaque. Like all victorious armies, this one also plundered Seringapatam and ransacked Tipu’s palace. Besides the usual gold and cash, several valuables, including his personal effects and weapons were shipped to England. While most of these articles are now in the British Royal Collection and the Victoria and Alber Museum, some of them have been brought back to India. For instance, the sword of Tipu Sultan was acquired by Vijay Mallaya,  at a Sotheby’s auction.

The Tipu trail would need to cover the following places in Srirangapatinam.

1)The Dariya Daulat Palace (Summer Palace) which is set amidst beautiful gardens called Daria Daulat Bagh. Tipu Sultan built this palace in 1784. It is primarily made with Teak wood in the Indo-Saracenic style. It has a rectangular plan and is built on a raised platform.

2) The Jumma Masjid, or Friday Mosque. The mosque has stone Arabic inscriptions which list the ninety-nine different titles given to the Prophet Mohammed, Farsi inscriptions that state that it was built by Tipu Sultan in 1782 AD.

3)The Gumbaz is a spectacular tomb and houses the remains of Tipu Sultan, his father Hyder Ali and his mother Fatima Begum among beautiful gardens. The graves of other relatives also surround the Gumbaz, some with small signs naming the individuals buried within. The outer Gumbaz columns are made of Amphibolite, a very dark rock. Handcrafted door frames lead into an inner tomb illuminated only by natural light.

4)The Garrison Cemetery has over three hundred graves of European officers killed in the final battle with Tipul Sultan  in 1799. Among those buried here, are eighty officers of the Swiss ‘de Meuron Regiment’  a mercenary Swiss Infantry regiment from Ceylon.

5) Scott’s Bungalow was the residence of Colonel Scott, an officer of the Madras Army who played a key role in the Siege of Seringapatam in 1799. His life’s tragic story is poignantly captured in Walter Yeldham’s poem The Deserted Bungalow, published in 1875.

After the war in 1800, Colonel Scott was appointed to oversee the manufacturing of gun carriages at the Fort and resided in a bungalow by the banks of the Cauvery River. One fateful day, while on a routine tour of inspection at the French Rocks garrison, tragedy struck. Upon returning home the next day, he found his wife and two daughters had succumbed to a sudden outbreak of cholera.

Devastated by grief, Colonel Scott is said to have vanished without a trace, giving rise to a local legend. According to popular belief, the heartbroken officer drove his horse-drawn carriage into the torrential waters of the Cauvery River, ending his life.

Moved by the Colonel’s story, the Mysore Maharaja ordered that the bungalow and its furnishings be preserved exactly as they were, in the hope that Scott might one day return. Though he never did, the kings of the Wodeyar dynasty honoured this tradition, ensuring that Scott’s Bungalow was maintained in good repair for generations.

5) The Nilgiris

The final leg of the Tipu Trail involves travelling to the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu, approximately 300 kilometres from Bangalore. Starting from Srirangapatinam, the journey takes you through Mysore, then up the Sigur or Gudalur Ghat roads, past Ooty and Coonoor, to reach Nonsuch Estate, located about 10 kilometres from Coonoor town. The Droog Fort, a historic site linked to both Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan, is situated on Nonsuch Estate.

The Nilgiris region has a rich and varied history. It was part of the Vijayanagar Kingdom from 1336 to 1565. After the fall of this empire, the region came under the control of the Mysore rulers. Subsequently, Hyder Ali and later his son Tipu Sultan governed the area. However, neither Hyder Ali nor Tipu Sultan ever visited the Nilgiris. The region was ceded to the East India Company in 1799 by the Treaty of Seringapatam following Tipu Sultan’s defeat.

Despite their absence, Droog Fort (also known as Bakasuramalai or Pakasuramalai) played a significant role in the military campaigns of both Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Situated at an elevation of approximately 6,000 feet above mean sea level, the fort served as a strategic outpost. Sentries stationed here used to fire a cannon to signal the approach of British troops, often preventing surprise attacks on Seringapatinam. The fort’s strategic location and function underscore its historical importance.

The site also holds a place in local folklore. Legend has it that the fort’s hill, Pakasuramalai, was home to the demon Bakasura. Some residents claim that the Pandavas spent time here during their exile. The fort’s alternative name, Hulical Droog, translates to ‘Tiger Stone’, commemorating a local Badaga (Indigenous people of the Nilgiris) villager’s heroic act of killing a tiger in the area.

Pakasuramalai is not a single hill but a cluster of seven small hillocks. Accessing the fort requires a trek from Nonsuch Estate through a small, forested area. Tipu’s troops are believed to have carved steps into the rock face to facilitate movement. Today, visitors are greeted by a serene and picturesque landscape. The silence that surrounds you is intense and broken only by birdsong. Though the fort itself is largely in ruins, with just a crumbling wall remaining, the area’s natural beauty and historical importance make it a compelling destination.

The view from Pakasuramalai is truly spectacular. On clear days, one can see as far as Kotagiri, Ooty, Bhavani Sagar, and beyond. The British explorer and scholar Sir Richard Francis Burton (1821–1890) described the vista vividly: “The rock upon which we tread falls with an almost perpendicular drop of four thousand feet into the plains. From this eyrie we descry the houses of Coimbatore, the windings of the Bhawany [river], and the straight lines of road stretching like ribbons over the glaring yellow surface of the low land.”

Even though much of the fort has succumbed to time, the journey to Pakasuramalai offers an immersive experience, combining breathtaking natural scenery with echoes of a storied past. Visiting it is a wonderful way to end the Tipu Trail.

Sunitha Srinivasan